A Weekend of Diversion (and Sun)

Was on the move this weekend. By a little before noon on Saturday, I arrived at Amecameca, the the nearest city to the (still active) volcanoes Popocatépetl and Ixtaccíhuatl. Amecameca lies about and hour and a half southeast of Mexico City, minus traffic, although it took almost 3 hrs. to get there yesterday.

(top: Popo, bottom: Ixta)

My plan for the day was to escape the crowds and go for a nice hike. Seemed easy enough based on the Let's Go Mexico guidebook. I would take a bus to Amecameca, then take a combi or colectiva (shared taxi) to the volcanoes for 5 pesos. What it didn't say was that the volcanoes (and more specifically the start of the hiking trail, La Joya, that reached the top) was a good 20 km away. It also failed to mention that Sunday's were busy days for tourists. Saturdays, not so much. I say this because colectivas or combis that are not filled with people going to the same place you are turn into taxis--exactly what I had hoped to avoid. Anyhow, after some bargaining, I wrangled a colectiva driver to be my chauffer for the day. He took me to the beginning of the hiking trail and waited for me there the better part of the afternoon while I began what turned out to be a relatively strenuous hike toward to summit of Popo at 5,400 meters.



No, I did not make the summit, nor did I have any intention to do so, but the views were gorgeous and day was spectacular. The air was crisp and clean--a nice change from Mexico City--and the urge to keep going to see how much better the view would get pushed me further up the trail. I made it to the the second portillo (essentially a lookout) within about an hour and a half of steady climbing. There, I met Mayte, Leticia, and Paco, who were resting and waiting on the rest of their party to descend. Franco, Gabriel, Carmen (and one other friend whose name I dont remember) had set out on a training hike around 11am that would take them to a point near the summit and back down again that afternoon. After chatting for a while, the four of us decided to go a little farther up the trail until we met them, after which point we would make the descent together.



(This is as close as I got to the top--it's hidden behind the cloud).

Leticia was telling me that they are all volunteers in a group that is prepared to help with rescues, etc. in case of future disasters, esp. in mountainous areas. They all have a passion for hiking and climbing, and they get together most weekends to do outdoors activities. Buena gente, as they might say here. In the photo, from left to right are me, Gabriel, Leticia, and Franco (Carmen was taking the picture).



Side note: For anyone interested in visiting and hiking up the volcano, there are albergues (rudimentary sleeping areas--like cabins) that you can stay at for only 20-30 pesos per night near the base of the trail and also quite high up on the mountain (allowing you to make an early morning ascent to the summit). Sleeping bags, food and water are required. The albergue on the volcano is available on a first come first serve basis, so get there early or be prepared to pack your tent. Camping is allowed.

Got back to the parking lot around 5pm, about 1.5 hrs. later than I had originally intended. My driver, Guadalupe, was there waiting for me. I bought him a drink and we set off for Amecameca so that I could return home. Grabbed a quick bite to eat at the Amecameca market (tacos as you can see) before heading back to the apartment here in the city, where I arrived tired and quite suburned after 9pm. Needless to say, I slept well.



Got up this morning and after watching--yes, more soccer--part of the Confederations Cup (Iraq played South Africa to a tie), I went to Xochimilco. Xochimilco is most famous for its pre-Aztec irrigation canal system, which while it used to serve a practical purpose, now caters to families, couples, and tourists who board trajineras (hand-poled, colorful boats) and spend the day drinking and generally enjoying life. Now, you might be thinking Venice based on this description, but it's hardly comparable. The canals here are much smaller, and most of the buildings are offset from the water.



Having gone by myself, I really stuck out during my adventure through the canal. I was the only passenger on a 20+ foot long trajinera travelling through the canal and this definitely brought some attention my way in the form of incredulous looks, smiles, and stares. Apparently, this is not something you do alone (point taken for a return trip). Note to potential future travellers: if travelling by yourself, take the colectiva. You travel the same canals and you see everything you would see from the trajinera, but you stick out less and you pay significantly less too.



Lunch was definitely the highlight of the day. I stumbled upon a regional food festival in the central square at Xochimilco and decided what better place to eat. Yes, even for those of you not conversant or especially literate in Spanish, conejo is rabbit. And it was delish (no, it doesn't taste like chicken)! Cooked on low heat on a grill and (at the stand I chose to eat) basted with a paste of dried Guajillo chiles. It came served with rice, and a cold salad of nopales, onions and tomatoes. I also tried a tamale de conejo which was also tasty.



By late afternoon, I felt even more suburned and just generally tired. Fatigue from yesterday's hike was slow to hit, but is now in full effect. Also, I finally found a reasonably priced sunscreen (much more expensive here in Mexico) and lathered it on. The damage, however, had already been done. I can only hope for limited peeling.

I think that's enough rambling for now. It's way past bedtime even after my 1.5 hr nap this evening.